Fixing a Flat Tire, Among Other Things

Ok. Winter is on its way out, and most of us have already gone out for a ride or two. In the coming months, as the weather begins to warm, our rides will be getting longer and hopefully more adventurous. The best riding in the spring is near bodies of water, and in Maryland we don’t lack those. The reason behind this is that the mountains can still get a cold stinging rain in the Spring, but also because the wildlife and plants are always at their finest along bodies of water after a long winter. All that being said, with more rides and longer rides you will be increasing the likelihood that you’ll get a flat tire.

So, here’s what to do. If the object is still sticking out of your tire, and you are only losing air slowly, leave it in. Watch it closely, and ride slowly, putting air in the tire whenever you can. If you are needing to put in air every hour or so, it is best to stick to the more popular roads, or at least ensure you will be riding through towns on your way home. If you pull the object out, you are surely stuck, but if you can manage to get home or another place before it goes completely flat then that is the best option.

If the leak is quick, and the above option isn’t an option, you need to either get a tow or pull out the patch kit. To do the latter, pull out the nail and ream the hole with the tools in your kit. Next, remove the backing from the plug material and thread through your insertion tool. Cover all material with glue. Insert the plug until it’s through all the way, and then slowly pull the tool out. The plug should be flush with the tire. Also, as a warning, you have to greatly reduce your speed if you are using a tire plug. Remember it is for emergencies only. Also, if you do use a plug, once you are at home or a shop you need to replace the tire, since you cannot continue to ride on a tire with a plug.

Check out this video for a visual. Also, we have plenty of tire repair kits at all of our Pete’s Cycles locations, so come pay us a visit.

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The Race for the World's Most Expensive Motorcycle is Underway

I figured since so many people are making handcrafted, custom bikes that sell for a lot of money, it would be fun to try and find the world's most expensive motorcycle. What I found was this--the official title of the world's most expensive motorcycle will vary according to who you are talking to. 

And also, there is a difference between custom cycles and ones you can buy in a showroom. But this does not mean that there are not agreed upon contenders for either category. So, as promised, here are the front runners for World's Most Expensive Motorcycle. 

First up is the special edition, gold-plated Harley Davidson custom made by Lauge Jensen, a Danish motorcycle manufacturer. Hailed by many to be the world's most expensive bike, this cycle has a price tag of around $880,000. This bike was just recently shown in Hamburg at a 2014 Motorcycle expo, and details for this bike are hard to come by. But stay posted.

Next up is another custom bike, but this time with a solid-gold frame muted so as to not have that gaudy shine. This bike was commissioned by Turkish motorcycle enthusiast Tarhan Telli, and comes equipped with a 1801cc RevTech V-Twin. It also boasts 125 horsepower, six gears and weighs close to 700 pounds. Though the exact price of this bike is a secret, the frame itself is rumored to be worth 1 million. See a short article and video here.

In terms of stock cycles, you cannot pass over the Ecosse Titanium Series FE Ti XX, with a price tag of a cool $300,000. The FE Ti XX has a 2,409cc billet engine and comes stock with 225 horses, the highest number of horses Ecosse has put into an engine. The leather saddle is crafted by Berluti, an Italian leather maker. Even more, only 13 of these bikes will be produced.

Last but not least comes from the vintage category, the ultra-rare 1954 AJS E95 Porcupine. Costing at least $750,000 (which was a previous sale price) this collectors item is one of four bikes of its kind. The 1954 Porcupine was made by the British during WWII, and now remains in the National Motorcycle Museum in Coventry.

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Modern, Muscular and Affordable—The New 2014 Yamaha Bolt 950

Every once in a while at Pete's Cycle we get a bike that excites us. The new 2014 Yamaha Bolt 950 is one such bike.

 

For starters, the Bolt 950 is an excellent entry level bike, and, what is more, it’s affordable at around $7,990. So, you’re probably asking what makes a good entry level bike? That’s a tough question, and better answered by actually sitting on the bike and taking it for a spin. Come and stop by one of three Pete's Cycle stores and give it a test ride.

 

What the Bolt 950 has going for it is a low seat height, which gives the rider a natural upright position and more reactive maneuvering, since their weight is closer to the ground. The bike is remarkably light and agile considering it’s a midsize bike. When tested for fuel economy, the numbers averaged 50/mpg.

 

In terms of hardware, this machine is powered by a fuel-injected, 4-valve, V-Star 950 engine. The design of the bike is striking, beginning with a muscular design married to a sleek minimalism that seems to go in another direction than spectacular chrome and flash.

 

John Bayliss, Yamaha Motor Canada Motorcycle Product Manager, put its Bolt 950 design in context with trends in the motorcycle design: “A new ‘back to basics’ trend is emerging in the motorcycle world. Designers and custom builders are stepping back to a time when the mechanical beauty of a motorcycle was highlighted in its design. The Bolt’s simple design, compact styling and V-twin power combine to offer an incredibly fun riding experience.”

 

The best way to learn about this bike is to actually see it. Pete's Cycle has three locations in the Baltimore area, so come to the shop and see one for yourself.

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Get Your Motorcycle Ready for Spring with these Tips

For all of you in the mid-Atlantic region--which includes myself--it’s been a brutal winter. We’ve had snow, sleet, freezing rain, and more snow. Hopefully, you’ve been able to get a few rides in this winter, or at least take the atv out for a winter romp. Whether you have or haven’t been able to start up the bike, spring is indeed coming, and there are a few things you need to do to get your machine spring ready.

To begin, when gas sits too long in an engine, parts of the gasoline mixture can evaporate. This means that what is left behind is called varnish, a brown viscous substance that can be very damaging to an engine. The best way to deal with varnish is to empty out all the gas, drop the float bowls on the carbs, and remove any residue with a proper carb cleaner. Also remove the jets and clean them out as well as any air passages inside the carb. and  It goes without saying that if you don't have these tools, call Pete's Cycle and set up a service appointment. We do offer pick up and delivery of your motorcycle.

 

If by chance you used some fuel stabilizer before winter, and was sure to run your bike for a couple minutes with the stabilizer in it, they you may be ready to go, at least as far as your gasoline is concerned. As always after winter, replace/refresh the oil.

 

Of course, there is the usual tire pressure check. Most likely they lost air over the winter. Also ensure that your tires are not cracking and that they don’t have any flat spots, which is common when they sit for a long period of time, such as over the winter. Ideally, you moved the bike this winter a few times to rotate the tires. Check your brakes and their fluid levels, and be assured your filter is clean and chain lubed. It is also a good idea to check your turn signals, cables and lights to ensure they made it through the winter undamaged. Chances are there are a few items that need work.

 

There’s a good chance your battery needs some attention. If needed, try using distilled water to replenish any cells that need it, but do not over fill the battery. Go to the high mark only. If you don’t have a trickle charger, get one. Battery Tender makes a great charger and you can even get the one that has the leads you install on the battery. This way you just have to plug in the charger without removing the seat.

 

Every bike is different, which means that in addition to the steps I have listed, you should read your bike’s manual and make sure you are not missing anything. And remember this: T-CLOCK. This acronym stands for the Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s checklist that should be done prior to every ride-- tires, controls, lights, oil, chassis, kickstand. Going through T-CLOCK before each ride is an excellent habit to start.

And finally, if your bike has been sitting all winter, then it may be as rusty as your riding skills. So start off easy on the first ride and be safe.

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Riding in a Crosswind

Ah Yes, Riding in a Crosswind

My customers ask me all the time about riding in a crosswind. I figured this would be a good way to address the issue. While most of the tips and techniques are intuitive, there are a few things you should keep in mind.

First of all, be sure to give yourself room. Ride in the center lane, but if it’s a tight two lane road, ride on the center right portion of your lane to give yourself some breathing room from the oncoming traffic. Calculate how much the wind is pushing you around and make adjustments from there. Look at the tops of trees to try to predict if there are gusts ahead. When you do encounter a gust, don’t slow down immediately, as that makes you more unsteady. Keep that pace, then slow down after the gust if needed. Ride at a speed you are comfortable with.

Be prepared to take a break and get a cup of coffee. Short, powerful gusts tend to be very unpredictable, and the higher the wind speed and stronger the gusts the more dangerous the riding. When it’s too dangerous, take a breather.

Most of the time, when the wind is knocking your bike around people tend to overgrip. Lean a tad forward as well and drop your shoulders slightly, to lessen your profile. Of course, you need to hold on tighter, but not letting the bike get knocked around a little may make you an easier target for the wind, since you are too stiff. On the other hand, you do need to countersteer. It may take a bit of time to find the right balance of relaxation and aggression. 

And finally, wind can make a sunny day very, very cold. We’ve got tons of windproof jackets and gear to not only keep you safe, but warm.

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Blisters Need Not Be Part of Your Ride

This post would like to thank Tip #175 of Mark Lindemann's The Total Motorcycling Manual, a must read for anyone with a motorcycle. Mark is a legend in the industry, once known for outrunning a low-flying aircraft at Bonneville, getting a ticket for hitting 134 mph in a 25-mph zone, and having to be sewed together by a veterinarian after a crash and burn on his streetbike.

Mark’s tip #175 is about not getting blisters. Sure, you have nice tight fitting gloves that you bought from Pete's Cycle--or at least we hope so--but this does not always do the trick. To beat almost any blister, begin by getting a 1.5 inch roll of medical adhesive tape.

Step 1 Ensure that your hands are dry and clean.

Step 2 Use Moleskin generously over the areas where you have blistered before. Cover the problem areas with a patch 2x the size of where you got previous blisters.

Step 3 Create about a 6 inch strip of tape.

Step 4 Using the strip, start at the back of your hand and wrap the tape to your palm. Make sure to apply pressure to the tape so it adheres nicely. Move your hands around to make sure the tape does not inhibit movement, and be sure your gloves till fit.

Step 5 Here’s the secret ingredient—use a dusting of talcum powder in your gloves or on your hands, both to make sure you can still get your gloves on and to reduce moisture, which can be a major cause of blisters. Make sure to bring the materials on your ride.

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Tips to Ride Suzuki Motorcycles in Snow

Riding your atv in the winter can be quite a production. First there are all the extra clothes, finding a place to ride with some decent snowpack, loading up the machines, and so on. And don’t forget keeping it ride-ready during the winter and/or removing the snowplow from its front end. 

But there are a few insider tips to make the winter voyage a bit less toilsome. Aside from the obvious—waterproof gloves, extra socks, etc.—tie something large to your key, since one drop in deep snow means you are walking back in the cold. Factor in cold hands, and big gloves, and it’s a good idea to protect the key.

Usually mid to low tire pressure is recommended for your atv, but not for riding in the snow. When riding on snowpack be sure to keep your tires full of air, around 4.5 to 5 psi. This will ensure the weight is distributed to the parts of the tire that get the most traction. Beware of low lying swampy areas that could be hiding ice under a few inches of powder, and in terms of ice riding, Alaskans say they need 12 inches of ice before they will take their machine across. The same ought to apply here, but crossing any type of water, with the exception of small streams, is always dangerous. It is best to be avoided is possible. 

Don’t forget to bring a space blanket, fire starter kit, shovel and a small saw. The saw always comes in handy to make strong levers should you get stuck. If you do get stuck, you should have a winch, but be sure there is no water in your winch before you ride, since by the time you need a tug the winch will be frozen solid and of no use. Another helpful tip is that once you are dragging snow on the frame, you’re in too deep as they say. Also, remember that you can still get wet even though it is well below freezing. Since your machine will heat up, in combination with your body heat, your seat will always get wet. That much is guaranteed. Waterproof pants are a lifesaver.

We carry all the winter weather gear you need, so pay us a visit.

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